Most Russians are shy around new people, even their new owners. But they quickly and firmly bond to their caregivers. The typical Russian is shy around strangers, so it might take him some time to accept people from outside the household. Food, attention, and a warm body to snuggle against are a Russian’s priorities in life. They prefer a quiet household and accept changes reluctantly.
BRINGING YOUR NEW RUSSIAN HOME
Russians as a breed can be somewhat timid around new people and in new environments. To make their adjustment easier on you both, confine him to a room (such as a second bedroom) for the first several days. This will give him a smaller and not so threatening place to adjust to at first. Because he is confined to one room, you will be able to keep a closer eye on him – fewer places to run and hide. Make sure that you have “cat – proofed” this room (and the rest of the house). Remove all rubber bands, string, and small breakable objects – anything that he might try to eat or knock over and hurt himself. Many a cat has died from string, feathers, or rubber bands that have lodged in their stomachs or wrapped around their intestines.
IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER CAT IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CONFINE YOUR NEW CAT AT FIRST! This will allow both cats to smell and check out each other in a non-threatening manner. If you were to just drop the new cat into the house, your older cat would perceive him as invading his territory and try to drive him out. Let both cats talk to each other under the door and smell each other on you. Later, they can have “supervised visitation.” Let the older cat in the room while the new one explores the house. They can then have face to face contact in the room for a few minutes a day. This may seem like a lot of effort, but it will help them to adjust to each other. Think of it as new roommates writing letters about themselves before moving in together as opposed to some stranger who just barges into your house one day and makes himself at home.
As he adjusts to you and his new home, you can let him have more and more time out in the house. Gradually, he will make himself at home.
Please take your new cat to your veterinarian as soon as possible for a thorough examination. This will give your vet a baseline reading of your cat’s health and he will already have seen him and have his records in the event that he does become sick. We have provided you with a record of the shots that your kitten has already received. Your vet will also need to send us a letter stating that he has neutered/spayed your kitten when he does that procedure.
FEEDING
Food is very high on a Russian’s list of priorities, followed by attention, then food. They will try to convince you that you have not fed them for a week. Do not fall for it!!!. Russians like to eat and will become fat if you let them eat what and when they want. We recommend that you feed twice a day (three times until they are 7 months old) and have fresh water available at all times. Do not let them free feed. A cat does not need to pick at food all day. This will make him a fussy eater. This will also enable to monitor his food intake. You will know how much to cut back if necessary and if he is not eating properly, which can be a sign of illness. We recommend that you feed a premium dry cat food (such as Royal Canin, Halo, Orijin, or Acana) and preferably grain free. These foods have less “fillers” in them, so that there are more usable nutrients. At first, you may think that they cost more than the grocery store variety, but you actually feed less (1/4 to 1/2 half-cup per serving) and your cat will be healthier in the long run. An added benefit – as you are feeding less, there is less waste to scoop out of the litter box.
We also advocate feeding a premium canned food, perhaps mixed with some additional water. Cats, by their nature, do not drink enough water, and it is important that they to do maintain healthy kidney function (for to insure that males do not have a blockage of the urethra). As your cat matures, you will need to switch to a “light” or “less active” variety of the same food. These contain less fat. Remember, if you keep your cat’s weight down, he will be healthier.
Speaking of water – did you know that cats are more inclined to drink water if it’s in a fountain? Studies have shown that given the choice, cats prefer to drink running/moving water. You might think about getting a pet fountain. We really like the all metal ones as they can be put right in the dishwasher for cleaning. Remember to disassemble the motor and clean it too.
SUPPLEMENTS
The only supplement that you should need is hairball medicine (Laxatone, Femalt). This will loosen any accumulated hair in the cat’s stomach and he should pass it or throw it up. Used regularly, it should pass. Most cats love it and all that you have to do is offer a bean-sized blob on your finger for him to lick off. If for some reason he doesn’t like it, try Femalt’s Fish flavor (as opposed to the Malt flavors of the others) or smear it on his paw for him to clean off.
Additionally, several manufacturers now offer a hairball control dry food. The extra fiber in this food helps the fur pass through the cat’s system. Use alone or mix with your cat’s current food.
If the skin or fur begins to feel dry, add a couple of drops of Lipiderm or flax oil to his wet food. DO NOT ADD VEGETABLE OIL. Lipiderm and other skin supplements contain Omega Fatty Acids which will improve the textures of the fur and skin. Oils really won’t do this, and cats can breathe the oil droplets into their lungs.
Because you are feeding a completely balanced diet, you shouldn’t have to give any other supplements. If you think that your cat may have any other dietary problems, talk to your vet.
GROOMING
Russians are pretty low maintenance as far as grooming. Comb them with a medium to small toothed metal comb every few days (they will like it because they think that they are getting attention). This will remove any loose fur before they ingest it and it forms a hairball.
Nail clipping is pretty easy. Remember, your cat has had his nails clipped from the time he was only a few weeks old, so he is used to it. Get a good pair of nail clippers. These will be easier for you to manage and you will do a better job. Cradle the cat on your lap and push up on the pad of the foot to make him display his nails. Russians have a translucent nail, so the pink vein is easy to see. Cut just beyond the vein. Don’t hit that vein or he will bleed, be in pain, and not trust you for a while. Quickly do each foot (back ones, too). Then, (secret hint here) give him his hairball medicine. Most cats think that it is a treat, and you can kill two birds with one stone. Some of ours can’t wait to have their nails clipped because of this. We recommend that you clip once a week.
Examine ears weekly. If they are dirty, put some olive oil on a Q-tip or cotton pad and swab out the ear.
We do not advocate Russian Blues (or any other indoor cats) wearing collars. Cats should remain indoors……and Russians have very little desire to be outside. If you absolutely feel that your cat must wear a collar make sure that it is a breakaway collar. A regular decorative collar could easily kill or maim your cat! The collar may hang on something and strangle your cat. Also, he may try to work to collar off, only to work a leg though the collar – this collar will then proceed to cut through the skin at the leg joint, maiming or killing the cat.
CORRECTING BEHAVIORS
Russians are very smart cats and generally can be disciplined. Consistency is the key. The same action must get the same response all of the time; it can’t be right to do something sometimes and not right other times. If he is doing something undesirable (getting on the counters, for example) catch him in the act and shout “NO” (or “DOWN” if appropriate). If that doesn’t work, repeat “NO” and shoot him with a water-filled squirt bottle. Remember, you can’t go back and discipline, because one minute later he won’t understand what he has done wrong.
Do not ever let your cat do anything once that you will not want him to do again! For example, if you don’t want them trying to steal food from your dinner plate, then never give them a treat from the table. If a cat does not realize that something is available, he won’t seek it out.
Most Russians will not scratch furniture if you provide them with plenty of alternatives. Regular scratching posts are fine, but most seem to prefer the rougher types covered with sisal rope. Flat cardboard scratching boxes (Bizzy Kitty) are great too. Rub catnip into them well and they will go crazy. The key here is to have plenty around; only one small post off in a back room just isn’t going to cut it when the urge strikes. And remember, because their nails are clipped, they should do little damage anyway.
Never call your cat if you are going to punish him or do something that you know that he won’t like (such as going to the vet). If you do, he will never trust you again.
LITTER BOXES
This should seem obvious, but a cat should have easy access to his litter box. If he has to travel two flights of stairs or go through some other type of maze, he may decide to seek out an alternative that you may not approve of. It should also be large enough for your cat to move around in. We personally simple, open trays without liners.
We recommend using pine pellet litter. It is lightweight, you use a much smaller amount of it than the clay variety, it seems to control odor much better, and doesn’t leave a clay residue all over everything in the room. A Berber–style mat in front of the box will catch most loose litter that your cat tracks out.
(Personal note: Equine pine bedding – found at feed stores – is identical to the pine pellet litter, except that it cost 1/3 as much. Should you not have a feed store or the like nearby, Petsmart has their own version of the pine litter, which is significantly cheaper than the national brand)
Should you prefer scoopable, we recommend using one of the new tofu-based litters, such as Tuft and Paw or Cattit. They clump hard, control odor well, and don’t track as much as clay.
We really cannot recommend clay litter. It’s dusty (getting all in the room and in your cat’s respiratory system) and gets soggy and smell. There are MUCH better alternatives.
PLAYTIME
Russians love to play, and most like to play rough. Give them fur toys that they can bat, carry and kill, balls to bat around, and paper bags and boxes to hide in. Vacuum cleaner belts are great because they can toss them, but they are big enough that they can’t destroy them. Watch your cat with a new toy – some rough players can hurt themselves if they ingest something that they have destroyed. Give them feather “birds” on a string or mylar kitty teasers – but only with supervision. Put them away someplace where your kitten cannot get to them when playtime is over so that she won’t eat them.